Greenhouses · Season extension · Frost strategy

Your last frost date is a suggestion.

The greenhouse kits, high tunnels, and cold-weather gear that keep things growing when the calendar says stop. BTU heating math, snow-load facts, and the trade-offs that decide what holds the line. Winter is a solvable problem.

A botanical-garden greenhouse standing in deep winter snow, glass panels lit against the cold
Saint Petersburg Botanical Garden in winter · Afanasovich via Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0

From the field

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Asked at the frost line

The questions every grower asks first.

Do greenhouses work in winter?

Yes, with the right expectations. An unheated greenhouse buys roughly one to two USDA zones of protection: cold-hardy crops keep producing while tomatoes still die. Add modest heat and insulation and the growing season simply stops ending. The difference between disappointment and a January salad is matching the structure to your zone.

How much warmer is a greenhouse than outside?

On a sunny winter day, 20 to 40 degrees warmer inside is normal. On a cloudy night, an unheated greenhouse holds only 2 to 8 degrees over the outside air, which is why night strategy, thermal mass, row covers inside, or a small heater, decides what survives. The math runs differently for each structure type.

Do I need a foundation for a greenhouse kit?

Small kits under about 50 square feet can sit on a leveled, anchored timber base. Bigger or more permanent structures want a proper perimeter foundation, and snow country makes that non-negotiable. Anchoring matters more than people think: an unanchored greenhouse is a kite with panels.

When should I cover plants for frost?

When the forecast touches 36 degrees, cover that evening: official frost readings happen at five feet, and ground level runs colder. Covers go on before sunset to trap soil heat and come off in the morning. A frost blanket buys 4 to 8 degrees; an old bedsheet buys 2 to 4.

Pick the structure that holds your winter.

Heating costs in real BTUs and dollars, snow-load ratings off the manufacturers' own sheets, and the foundation and glazing choices that decide whether a kit survives a hard freeze. Match the structure to your zone and the growing season stops ending.